posts by Debra Samuels
CANNED CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
Even Wolfgang Puck can’t get the taste perfect How many Jewish grandmothers does it take to dismiss canned chicken soup? Probably only one. But we had five, and one grandfather. These mavens tasted seven brands of ready-to-heat chicken noodle soup (no added water) and decided they all left a lot to be desired. It’s not …
Read moreCRINKLE-CUT FROZEN FRENCH FRIESFAST FOOD, THE HOME VERSION
Even the late Julia Child liked french fries. That would be the kind you got at McDonald’s. Thin crisp strips emerged from a deep fryer and were blanketed in a storm of salt. All this, of course, before trans fats became dirty words. You hardly have to wonder what Child would have thought of french …
Read moreMacaroni and Cheese
A childhood staple, from disappointing to delectable “This,” said one of the tasters, “is going to be so easy. It was the only thing my mother could cook.” Along with hot dogs and peanut butter, macaroni and cheese from a box is a childhood favorite and a staple in many households. Often, it’s the first …
Read morePackaged cooked turkey breast
Any way you slice it, it comes down to flavor, color, and texture Most turkey breast, both from the deli case and in packages, is made from chopped turkey breast muscle that has been pressed together, shaped into a round or oval, then steamed or roasted. When you buy turkey in sealed packages, it stays …
Read moreLEMON ICED TEA
Cold Newman’s Own is the pucker of the litter It may be the end of August, but there are still plenty of hot days and long drinks ahead. Americans love cold, icy drinks. Among the most popular are commercially made iced teas. Today they’re manufactured in a variety of flavors, and few are just tea, …
Read moreAll-Beef Hot Dogs
Choosing the top dog is no picnic There can be a lot to an all-beef hot dog. Some things you expect, like beef, of course, along with water, salt, and a few preservatives (nitrates and nitrites); and some you wouldn’t imagine: hydrolyzed soy protein, corn syrup, nutmeg, and celery juice. Eight people tasted six brands …
Read moreCottage Cheese
Which brand would Little Miss Muffet choose? June 20, 2007 When Little Miss Muffet sat eating her curds and whey, it’s a safe bet that she didn’t have the choice between California and Vermont styles. It seems that people who love cottage cheese are very interested in the texture as well as the taste. Some …
Read moreSupermarket California Rolls
Sushi migrates to the grocery cart In-store sushi bars are relatively new, at least on the East Coast, as major supermarket chains cash in on the sushi boom. Many stores offer sushi made off premises and this is where the quality can suffer. Refrigeration alters the texture of the rice and makes it hard. So …
Read moreSharp White Cheddar
One of the cheeses stands alone You would think, with all the sniffing, that this was a wine tasting. Instead, seven brands of sharp white cheddar had our noses doing some detective work. The cheeses were aged anywhere from 60 days to 9 months, during which time they develop flavor and texture. We ate them …
Read moreCereal bars
Blurring the line between breakfast and dessert Presented with an array of goodies to taste, one participant asks: “Why do cereal bars exist?” An inauspicious start. But six brands later, the answer is not apparent. With a soft crust and a fruit paste inside, cereal bars have a Fig Newton quality. Fig Newtons, of course, …
Read moreMatzo
Crisp kosher crackers taste like Passover Matzo, a thin, often square, perforated cracker, is the symbolic food of the Passover table. When the Jews left ancient Egypt, they fled without letting the bread rise. During the eight days of Passover, which begins on Monday night, no foods with leavening are allowed on the table. Today’s …
Read moreCaesar croutons
All hail the best of the crunch If you make croutons at home, you probably begin with leftover bread that you cut up into what approximates small squares, toss them in olive oil, salt, and pepper, and toast them until lightly brown. You can sprinkle them on soups, toss them with salad greens, or simply …
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Bento:Build a Better Lunch
Debra Samuels, bestselling author, food writer and cooking instructor, wants to give the American lunchbox a makeover. In the chapter on “bento,” the traditional Japanese lunch box, in her upcoming book, My Japanese Table, Debra encourages the use of color, texture and taste to create healthier and more visually appealing meals.
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